Box Hill: Hill of Stone Heritage Area Varian Tye September 2024
Box Hill is a large area in the parish of Box with its own individual character and sense of place. In this article Varian Tye argues that its unique history and the architecture of its settlements should be recognised as an area of heritage significance.
Box Hill comprises the area from the site of the former Clift Quarry off the A4, down to the Box Road Bridge over the Great Western Railway (site of Pictor’s Wharf), to Box Tunnel Portal, as well as the area around Beech Road, Quarryman’s Arms, Box Common, Box Fields, Quarry Hill and Quarry Woods. It includes many individual significant buildings and sites, making it an area of historic and architectural interest with its own distinct character and identity; an area which has a history closely related to the quarrying of limestone.
Box Hill comprises the area from the site of the former Clift Quarry off the A4, down to the Box Road Bridge over the Great Western Railway (site of Pictor’s Wharf), to Box Tunnel Portal, as well as the area around Beech Road, Quarryman’s Arms, Box Common, Box Fields, Quarry Hill and Quarry Woods. It includes many individual significant buildings and sites, making it an area of historic and architectural interest with its own distinct character and identity; an area which has a history closely related to the quarrying of limestone.
Quarrying at Box Hill
Open hillside quarrying at Hazelbury, in the area now called Box Hill, has a long-recorded history dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Derek Hawkins in Subterranean Britain: Bath Stone Quarries notes "By the middle of the 19th century the west facing escarpment of Box Hill overlooking the village of Box was a mass of more or less worked-out open quarries stretching over a length of approximately a kilometre, with the great Hazelbury Quarry in the middle, set back on the hill top behind."[1] Although worked-out, this was not the end of the industry; underground excavation started to be undertaken. In the 1820s an underground quarry was formed in Boxfields that is famous for its magnificent high chamber known as The Cathedral. The underground Quarries in Quarry Woods included a series of entrances with names such as Jacks Workings, Lady Hamilton’s Hole and Bridgegate. The names of underground passages /roads are also of some interest, names such as Black Horse Road and Appian Way. Many of these names were given by Cotham Caving Club from their exploration in 1960s. In the 1960s a new quarry was opened up in the Tyning - Box Field Area which was infilled in the 1980s. Quarrying ceased at Clift Quarry in the 1960s.
Brunel’s railway tunnel through Box Hill between 1836 and 1841 led to the discovery of extensive beds of fine limestone which encouraged further quarrying in Box and Corsham. The GWR helped transport the stone quarried and stone wharfs /yards were established at Box Station and to the west of box Tunnel at Pictor’s Wharf, now the site of Brunel Care Home. John Cooke Bourne (1 September 1814–February 1896) was a British artist, engraver and photographer and is known for his lithographs showing the construction of the London and Birmingham Railway and the Great Western Railway. One of his prints shows a cartload of stones leaving a quarry adit probably in the area of Quarry Woods. In the distance, Box Railway Bridge can be seen over the broad gauge GWR at the bottom of Box Hill and crossing the GWR. This print helps reinforce the historic interest and significance of the quarries in this area.
Open hillside quarrying at Hazelbury, in the area now called Box Hill, has a long-recorded history dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Derek Hawkins in Subterranean Britain: Bath Stone Quarries notes "By the middle of the 19th century the west facing escarpment of Box Hill overlooking the village of Box was a mass of more or less worked-out open quarries stretching over a length of approximately a kilometre, with the great Hazelbury Quarry in the middle, set back on the hill top behind."[1] Although worked-out, this was not the end of the industry; underground excavation started to be undertaken. In the 1820s an underground quarry was formed in Boxfields that is famous for its magnificent high chamber known as The Cathedral. The underground Quarries in Quarry Woods included a series of entrances with names such as Jacks Workings, Lady Hamilton’s Hole and Bridgegate. The names of underground passages /roads are also of some interest, names such as Black Horse Road and Appian Way. Many of these names were given by Cotham Caving Club from their exploration in 1960s. In the 1960s a new quarry was opened up in the Tyning - Box Field Area which was infilled in the 1980s. Quarrying ceased at Clift Quarry in the 1960s.
Brunel’s railway tunnel through Box Hill between 1836 and 1841 led to the discovery of extensive beds of fine limestone which encouraged further quarrying in Box and Corsham. The GWR helped transport the stone quarried and stone wharfs /yards were established at Box Station and to the west of box Tunnel at Pictor’s Wharf, now the site of Brunel Care Home. John Cooke Bourne (1 September 1814–February 1896) was a British artist, engraver and photographer and is known for his lithographs showing the construction of the London and Birmingham Railway and the Great Western Railway. One of his prints shows a cartload of stones leaving a quarry adit probably in the area of Quarry Woods. In the distance, Box Railway Bridge can be seen over the broad gauge GWR at the bottom of Box Hill and crossing the GWR. This print helps reinforce the historic interest and significance of the quarries in this area.
In the 19th century a further entrance to an underground quarry was formed on Box Hill at Clift Quarry adjacent the main A4 and former turnpike road (now called Back Lane or Beech Road). The extensive underground workings between Box Hill and the railway tunnel and towards Corsham have been noted as forming the largest stone mines in the UK and possibly the world.
Tynnings Cottages were built before 1870 and are in the site of an earlier worked-out open hillside, Tyning Quarry. The late 19th and early 20th century census records lists the quarrymen and their families who lived in the terrace, such as James Milson, banker mason, in number 4; and David Dancey, stone chopper and sawyer, in number 5. In 1908 the properties were put up for sale by the Bath Stone Firms.
Cottages and Buildings
The massive expansion of 19th century quarrying on Box Hill led to a growth of cottages needed by quarry workers and their families. A newspaper reporter in 1870 commented about improvements on Box Hill brought about, not so much by the renovation of old buildings, but by the erection of new ones.[2] Here (a visitor) would see … a number of small cottages, each and every one of which has attached to it a garden of good size on the ground that of yore was nothing but waste land, naked and bare. Across a field known as The Great Tyning, a visitor would see a long row of cottages, more than half of which have recently been built. Turning a corner is a house purchased by money saved from the pot house (presumably ‘Tisbuts).
The massive expansion of 19th century quarrying on Box Hill led to a growth of cottages needed by quarry workers and their families. A newspaper reporter in 1870 commented about improvements on Box Hill brought about, not so much by the renovation of old buildings, but by the erection of new ones.[2] Here (a visitor) would see … a number of small cottages, each and every one of which has attached to it a garden of good size on the ground that of yore was nothing but waste land, naked and bare. Across a field known as The Great Tyning, a visitor would see a long row of cottages, more than half of which have recently been built. Turning a corner is a house purchased by money saved from the pot house (presumably ‘Tisbuts).
Plans of early workers’ cottages on the top of Box Hill west of the Quarryman’s Arms (from Digging Bath Stone by David Pollard, courtesy Lightmoor Press)
Features of interest on the 1847 plan, above left, include the Quarryman’s Arms, workers cottages, limekilns, tram road with cranes and what appears to be a circular horse walk, possibly a horse engine to drive a stone lath, and the cliff faces of the old quarry. The plan above and to the right notes the names of the pub and workers houses.
The workers cottages including Albert Place, The Court, Laura Place and Box Hill Villas were constructed by Thomas Strong (quarry owner) and therefore are the earliest surviving quarrymen cottages in the parish.[3] These properties can be identified on the 1840 Tithe Map and Laura Place may date back to 1836. The Quarryman Arms also survives and is still used as a public house. The cliff faces of some of historic open quarries also survive (such as Tynings Quarry and Tanglewood Quarry). Other buildings of interest include Ash Cottage and The Roses, located adjacent to the Quarryman’s Arms. Box Hill Villas are a reminder of the historic importance of these properties and can be viewed from the historic lane and public footpath BOX39, which continues from the Quarryman Arms to Box Hill Common.
The workers cottages including Albert Place, The Court, Laura Place and Box Hill Villas were constructed by Thomas Strong (quarry owner) and therefore are the earliest surviving quarrymen cottages in the parish.[3] These properties can be identified on the 1840 Tithe Map and Laura Place may date back to 1836. The Quarryman Arms also survives and is still used as a public house. The cliff faces of some of historic open quarries also survive (such as Tynings Quarry and Tanglewood Quarry). Other buildings of interest include Ash Cottage and The Roses, located adjacent to the Quarryman’s Arms. Box Hill Villas are a reminder of the historic importance of these properties and can be viewed from the historic lane and public footpath BOX39, which continues from the Quarryman Arms to Box Hill Common.
Albion Terrace (below) was probably built by quarry-owners in the years 1875-1881 for their quarry employees. The historic occupants reflect the good and bad of the area – the demeaning underground work which caused anti-social behaviour (Frank Fletcher repeatedly charged with affray); those who overcame their environment (Elizabeth Neate led her family out of the workhouse); and the tragedy of scores of young Box Hill men who died in the Great War (like William John Sumner killed in November 1914).
Some properties in the late 19th century were built for masons, foremen and crane owners (including Hillcrest and The Rocks). In addition, facilities were needed to support the growing number of people with shops and places of religious worship (Primitive Chapel, Beech Road, and the United Methodist Free Church in 1868, on Box Hill near the Quarryman’s Arms Public House).
The quarries offered work in a multitude of jobs, for example, an ale boy for carrying beer and tobacco to the quarrymen, a lad employed leading horses in and out of the quarries, a horse driver for the quarries, harness makers, stone sawyers, pickers, wagon makers, carters of stone, blacksmiths, stone merchants, apprentice masons, retired and active masons, banker masons - all mixed in with agricultural labourers, shepherds, and soap and candle makers in the candle factory on Quarry Hill.[4]
The quarries offered work in a multitude of jobs, for example, an ale boy for carrying beer and tobacco to the quarrymen, a lad employed leading horses in and out of the quarries, a horse driver for the quarries, harness makers, stone sawyers, pickers, wagon makers, carters of stone, blacksmiths, stone merchants, apprentice masons, retired and active masons, banker masons - all mixed in with agricultural labourers, shepherds, and soap and candle makers in the candle factory on Quarry Hill.[4]
Grand houses were also built by the members of the Pictor family, notable Box stone quarry owners at Fogleigh House and what is now Rudloe Park Hotel. The Pictor family are noted by David Pollard in his book on quarrying as, “…the most powerful dynasty of Bath stone quarry masters.” Both buildings are listed Grade II because of their national architectural and historic importance and Fogleigh House is located just off Box Hill, approaching the site of the historic Pictor’s Wharf at the bottom of the hill. However, to truly appreciate their historic context you need to look at the wider area of Box Hill and the buildings which are not listed, for example the quarrymen’s cottages noted above and the other evidence of quarrying above and below ground found on Box Hill.
Other Structures and Footpaths
In addition to workers’ cottages and stone yards, offices, workshops and places of worship were built. A tramway was constructed from Clift Quarry down to a wharf adjacent the GWR. Public houses and inns not only served quarrymen but at Tunnel Inn (which still survives today) near Box Fields accommodation was provided for navies who worked on the construction of Box Tunnel and allegedly the local mortuary. Shops and post offices were established on Box Hill.
In addition to workers’ cottages and stone yards, offices, workshops and places of worship were built. A tramway was constructed from Clift Quarry down to a wharf adjacent the GWR. Public houses and inns not only served quarrymen but at Tunnel Inn (which still survives today) near Box Fields accommodation was provided for navies who worked on the construction of Box Tunnel and allegedly the local mortuary. Shops and post offices were established on Box Hill.
There are several public rights of way and footpaths in the area which are of historic interest as their routes can be traced back to at least the 1844-1880 OS map. Bob Hancock recalled, “Dad told me the reason for the walkways between people’s gardens under the hill was for access to water, like the short cut called the Drum. Just like those we walk for pleasure today, footpaths were provided for people to get from one place to another for work, school. One of father’s stories was about the old quarrymen. After their days work, they would walk back home from Box Hill, Box Wharf and Box Station to Ditteridge, Colerne, Marshfield, Kingsdown and Monkton Farleigh. He would say that you couldn’t get lost as the paths were white with stone dust….. Quarrying work was hard work and I’ve heard Dad say that during the depression of the 1930s the coal miners came up from Wales, and would admit coal mining was not such hard work as stone quarrying”.[5]
Facing onto Beech Road on Box Hill, the attractive historic cottage, Magna, has a long history pre-dating the current A4. The orientation o the house altered in 1888 when the 12-year-old son of William and Matilda Bradfield was killed at The Wharf stoneyard, just down Beech Road. He was employed to mind the horses but took it upon himself to manoeuvre a wagon full of stone. He misjudged the turning circle and was crushed between a stack of stone and the wagon. His parents left the house shortly after and subsequent residents converted the back of the house on the A4 road into a shop. The cottage still retains its traditional stone tiled roof and faces onto the route of the historic tramway from Clift to Pictors Wharf, at the bottom of Box Hill.
The West Lung of Spring Quarry, which lies within the parish of Box, was designated a Scheduled Monument in 2013. The entry description refers to the rarity of the underground quarry and the survival of underground features such as crane, tracks and tools in place as left by the quarrymen.[6] However, there are other areas of important underground quarries in the area, such as those once entered from Quarry Woods, Clift Quarry and features like the ‘Cathedral’ in Boxfields. The web links in Sources and References, at the end of this article, and the books previously mentioned show some of the features found in the above quarries. It is notable that Clift Quarry like the West Lung of Spring Quarry, has interesting underground features such as cranes, one part identified as ‘Crane Country.’
Clift Quarry underground quarry also had a steam locomotive. This is very rare for underground quarries.[7] A tramway also linked the quarry to The Wharf, from which stone was transported on the GWR. At Clift, the stone arched entrance is visible on the surface as constructed (now closed) together with some sections rebuilt and converted into residential use. Because the underground quarry was not converted for military use (like Spring Quarry), Clift therefore remains a rare example of a historic underground quarry unaltered by the MOD, with its original entrance surviving and historic buildings on the surface (although altered). A rare historic 19th century surface stone quarry crane that worked at Clift in the stone yard and at the Wharf at the GWR has also recently been restored and relocated to its place of construction by Stothert and Pitt in Bath for the public to view.
The West Lung of Spring Quarry, which lies within the parish of Box, was designated a Scheduled Monument in 2013. The entry description refers to the rarity of the underground quarry and the survival of underground features such as crane, tracks and tools in place as left by the quarrymen.[6] However, there are other areas of important underground quarries in the area, such as those once entered from Quarry Woods, Clift Quarry and features like the ‘Cathedral’ in Boxfields. The web links in Sources and References, at the end of this article, and the books previously mentioned show some of the features found in the above quarries. It is notable that Clift Quarry like the West Lung of Spring Quarry, has interesting underground features such as cranes, one part identified as ‘Crane Country.’
Clift Quarry underground quarry also had a steam locomotive. This is very rare for underground quarries.[7] A tramway also linked the quarry to The Wharf, from which stone was transported on the GWR. At Clift, the stone arched entrance is visible on the surface as constructed (now closed) together with some sections rebuilt and converted into residential use. Because the underground quarry was not converted for military use (like Spring Quarry), Clift therefore remains a rare example of a historic underground quarry unaltered by the MOD, with its original entrance surviving and historic buildings on the surface (although altered). A rare historic 19th century surface stone quarry crane that worked at Clift in the stone yard and at the Wharf at the GWR has also recently been restored and relocated to its place of construction by Stothert and Pitt in Bath for the public to view.
A Second World War estate of prefabs was constructed at Boxfields between 1939–1945. The houses now demolished were occupied by many families, with shops and a school to serve the growing workers brought to clear and serve in the underground former stone quarries converted by the MOD to other uses such as aircraft reconnaissance and defence, munitions storage, and an underground aircraft factory.
Some of the underground quarries used by the MOD, such as Spring Quarry, are now Scheduled Monuments because of their significance. The story of the area when the estate survived and a community was formed has been recorded by Rosie McNamara in 'The Boxfields Bungalows‘.[8]
Some of the underground quarries used by the MOD, such as Spring Quarry, are now Scheduled Monuments because of their significance. The story of the area when the estate survived and a community was formed has been recorded by Rosie McNamara in 'The Boxfields Bungalows‘.[8]
Heritage at Risk
Regrettably some of the historic quarry sites have been infilled, such as that at Rawlings field noted above and some sites within Quarry Woods. The filling of such historic quarrying features is regrettable and, as visible reminders of the industry, makes those that survive even more important to identify and try to retain. Unsympathetic alterations to historic buildings (such as replacement of traditional timber window and door details) can detract from their historic character. The condition of the historic underground quarries in general is of special concern. At one time, quarries like Clift could be visited and locals and the wider community could truly appreciate the history of the underground quarrying industry in Box and the hard and dangerous work undertaken by the quarrymen. Sadly, this appears no longer possible due to safety concerns. Clift may be viewed as a frozen time capsule of the history of the quarrymen who worked underground . Such underground historic quarrying sites may be identified as Heritage Assets at Risk.
It would be desirable if a way could be found to reopen sections of Clift again and the safety issues addressed, with the permission of the owners, and then small groups with numbers and time agreed, led by professional cavers, allowed to visit the historic passageways again, because of the historic importance of quarrying in the area and the importance of this quarry.
Regrettably some of the historic quarry sites have been infilled, such as that at Rawlings field noted above and some sites within Quarry Woods. The filling of such historic quarrying features is regrettable and, as visible reminders of the industry, makes those that survive even more important to identify and try to retain. Unsympathetic alterations to historic buildings (such as replacement of traditional timber window and door details) can detract from their historic character. The condition of the historic underground quarries in general is of special concern. At one time, quarries like Clift could be visited and locals and the wider community could truly appreciate the history of the underground quarrying industry in Box and the hard and dangerous work undertaken by the quarrymen. Sadly, this appears no longer possible due to safety concerns. Clift may be viewed as a frozen time capsule of the history of the quarrymen who worked underground . Such underground historic quarrying sites may be identified as Heritage Assets at Risk.
It would be desirable if a way could be found to reopen sections of Clift again and the safety issues addressed, with the permission of the owners, and then small groups with numbers and time agreed, led by professional cavers, allowed to visit the historic passageways again, because of the historic importance of quarrying in the area and the importance of this quarry.
Above: The Post Office on the A4 at Box Hill around 1900 (courtesy Gordon Hall via John Currant).
Below: The store about a century later (courtesy Carol Payne)
Below: The store about a century later (courtesy Carol Payne)
Conclusion concerning Box Hill
In my opinion, the density and consistency of properties and sites related to stone quarrying on Box Hill make this area different to other parts of the parish. Box Hill is not in a Conservation Area, nor does it have many listed buildings. However, the Box Hill area and the upper sections of Quarry Hill, including Quarry Woods, are some of the most interesting and most attractive historic areas in the parish. This is due to their past association with quarrying of limestone, in particular Box Ground Stone, in open hillside and underground quarries, and because of its location set within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty within the Cotswolds National Landscape. Many buildings in this area are associated with quarrying, constructed in natural limestone taken from the local quarries, and comprise a tangible record of working-class families on Box Hill. It is an area with a distinctive character, identity, and sense of place because of the open spaces found within the settlement, topography of the area and magnificent views over the By Brook Valley.
The Box Hill area represents a rare example of an industrial landscape with a surviving historic stone quarrying settlement and evidence of both open hill and underground quarrying works. The humbler and simpler design of the architecture of the working quarrymen cottages, public house, historic work places, and the social history of the area are of interest. Furthermore, providing important historic context for the listed grander house in the area such as Fogleigh House. The Box Hill area has a concentration of surviving quarrying features, above and below ground, which makes the area of greater significance.
The extensive underground workings between Box Hill and the railway tunnel and towards Corsham have been noted by the Cotham Caving Group as forming the largest stone mines in the UK.[9] The group also note that the vast underground quarries in Box have at least 35 miles of passages and chambers. The historic significance of the area is both below and above ground, where the social and industrial archaeological story of the area can be seen in the workers’ cottages, their places of worship, public houses, educational institutes, stoneyards and artefacts such as cranes and graffiti found below. Box Hill merits identifying as a Heritage Area for all these reasons.
In my opinion, the density and consistency of properties and sites related to stone quarrying on Box Hill make this area different to other parts of the parish. Box Hill is not in a Conservation Area, nor does it have many listed buildings. However, the Box Hill area and the upper sections of Quarry Hill, including Quarry Woods, are some of the most interesting and most attractive historic areas in the parish. This is due to their past association with quarrying of limestone, in particular Box Ground Stone, in open hillside and underground quarries, and because of its location set within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty within the Cotswolds National Landscape. Many buildings in this area are associated with quarrying, constructed in natural limestone taken from the local quarries, and comprise a tangible record of working-class families on Box Hill. It is an area with a distinctive character, identity, and sense of place because of the open spaces found within the settlement, topography of the area and magnificent views over the By Brook Valley.
The Box Hill area represents a rare example of an industrial landscape with a surviving historic stone quarrying settlement and evidence of both open hill and underground quarrying works. The humbler and simpler design of the architecture of the working quarrymen cottages, public house, historic work places, and the social history of the area are of interest. Furthermore, providing important historic context for the listed grander house in the area such as Fogleigh House. The Box Hill area has a concentration of surviving quarrying features, above and below ground, which makes the area of greater significance.
The extensive underground workings between Box Hill and the railway tunnel and towards Corsham have been noted by the Cotham Caving Group as forming the largest stone mines in the UK.[9] The group also note that the vast underground quarries in Box have at least 35 miles of passages and chambers. The historic significance of the area is both below and above ground, where the social and industrial archaeological story of the area can be seen in the workers’ cottages, their places of worship, public houses, educational institutes, stoneyards and artefacts such as cranes and graffiti found below. Box Hill merits identifying as a Heritage Area for all these reasons.
Sources
Digging Bath Stone by David Pollard, courtesy Lightmoor Press.
The Boxfields Bungalows, 2020, Rosie McNamara
https://www.rudloescene.co.uk
Derek Hawkins, Subterranean Britain, Bath Stone Quarries, 2011
The history of limestone quarrying in the area and wider afield are discussed more fully at:
http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/box-quarries.html
http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/cranes-at-work.html
http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/underground-quarries.html
http://www.choghole.co.uk/LOCATIONS.html
Digging Bath Stone by David Pollard, courtesy Lightmoor Press.
The Boxfields Bungalows, 2020, Rosie McNamara
https://www.rudloescene.co.uk
Derek Hawkins, Subterranean Britain, Bath Stone Quarries, 2011
The history of limestone quarrying in the area and wider afield are discussed more fully at:
http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/box-quarries.html
http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/cranes-at-work.html
http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/underground-quarries.html
http://www.choghole.co.uk/LOCATIONS.html
References
[1] Derek Hawkins, Subterranean Britain Bath Stone Quarries, 2011
[2] The Wiltshire Independent, 24 February 1870
[3] Digging Bath Stone by David Pollard (courtesy Lightmoor Press)
[4] Occupations taken from the 1841 -1891 censuses and other sources
[5] In the book ‘A Wiltshire Lad Bob Hancock’s Story 1941 -2019‘,
[6] See https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1409858?section=official-list-entry
[7] See http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/clift-quarry-steam-loco.html
[8] Rosie McNamara, The Boxfields Bungalows, 2020 and https://www.rudloescene.co.uk/archive-1/boxfields/.
[9] Box Free Stone Mines, third edition, Cotham Caving Group 2002, Appendix 1
[1] Derek Hawkins, Subterranean Britain Bath Stone Quarries, 2011
[2] The Wiltshire Independent, 24 February 1870
[3] Digging Bath Stone by David Pollard (courtesy Lightmoor Press)
[4] Occupations taken from the 1841 -1891 censuses and other sources
[5] In the book ‘A Wiltshire Lad Bob Hancock’s Story 1941 -2019‘,
[6] See https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1409858?section=official-list-entry
[7] See http://www.boxpeopleandplaces.co.uk/clift-quarry-steam-loco.html
[8] Rosie McNamara, The Boxfields Bungalows, 2020 and https://www.rudloescene.co.uk/archive-1/boxfields/.
[9] Box Free Stone Mines, third edition, Cotham Caving Group 2002, Appendix 1